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Car repair collection

If switched off after going long distances, the car doesn't start anymore. After having left standing the car for a longer time, or electric startaid the engine runs again.Starter, solenoid or starter lock defective. The brushes of the starter are "clotty"VW Scirocco
A window opens all by itself. Pushing the button of the window lifter doesn't do any good. The other window works.Cable burned through. Possibly in the door frame.VW Scirocco
Oil warning light and buzzer suddenly alarm between 2000 and 3000 revolutions although oil level is OK. The engine doesn't rattle. Stopping the engine fixes the problem short-term.One of the two oil warning switches, which measure the oil pressure between 2000 and 3000 revolutions, is defective or has a bad contact. Solution: remove this switch. In its place insert a real oil pressure transmitter and oil pressure gauge.VW Scirocco
Oil warning light and buzzer alarm in bends. The engine rattles. Accelerating shortly fixes the fault.The oil warning switch for pressure under 0,3 bar warns against lack of oil! While driving, immediately switch to neutral and stop the engine. Let the car roll out and park. Don't start the engine again! Check the oil level. If it's low, refill. The proper type of oil can be learned from the manual. Start the engine and let it run for 2 minutes in neutral. If the oil warning light turns on again stop the engine and let the car tow to the next garage.VW Scirocco
Oil warning light and buzzer turn on at various numbers of revolutions and sufficient oil level. The vehicle puts out blue steam from the exhaust in increasing measures.Valve stem seals of the engine are porous and leaky. Search for a garage as fast as possible and have it repaired. The engine has to be opened.VW Scirocco
The vehicle loses oil.A seal is defective. Possibly the valve cover seal. Has to be changed.VW Scirocco
The vehicle loses oil continually. Also while standing.Oil pan defective or discharge screw of the oil pan not properly fixated.VW Scirocco
Tha car doesn't start anymore. The instruments work. When turning the ignition key, the car bucks, but doesn't start.Possibly battery weak. If so, try starting aid. Or the starter hangs (try tapping it slightly with a hammer).VW Golf II
When driving, the ventilation put out warm air, but in idle speed or low numbers of revolutions the heating immediately gets cold. Temperature indicator is constantly at 195°F (90°C).Possibly the heat exchanger jammed, so the pressure in idle speed is insufficient to deliver water in adequate measures. Pull off the hoses in the engine compartment (going through the splash wall) and blow through one side with compressed air. Best to insert cooling system cleaner into one hose in addition. Let impinge for an hour, then blow it off again with compressed air.VW Golf III 1,6
After an underside wash the following problem: When starting the already warm engine and accelerating normally, the engine bucks and lacks performance, especially in the lower range of numbers of revolutions. The spark plugs are new.Might be the distributor cap or the distributor itself. Possibly water entered. Possibly damage by martens. Possibly the sensors beneath the air filter soiled.VW Polo 86C
In idle speed the engine rattles, depending on how fast I release the clutch. When the clutch is pushed or when driving, the sound is gone, also when the engine is warm.Check gearbox oil level. Possibly the helical gearing in the gearbox has tolerance. When the engine is warm, the material expands a little and possibly eliminates the free motion.VW Golf III TDI
Dies off while driving. Then the heater plug lamp lights up and only after 20 to 40 seconds the car can be started again, sometimes it also start all by itself after some seconds. Relay 109 has been replaced already.Possibly there's a defective solder joint in the control device of the alarm system.VW Golf III TDI Ecomatic
After having gone for large distances, the clutch starts to "hang". The problem was one time remedied for a certain time by having the clutch slave cylinder replaced by a garage. Now the clutch master cylinder has been replaced without success.Possibly a damage on the release fork. Have the clutch master cylinder checked again. Check, if the car loses brake-fluid (reservoir). Have the clutch system bled professionally.VW Passat Kombi Diesel 85 KW 1999
The rear windscreen heater doesn't work. The indicator on the switch lights. The fuse and the heating wires are OK. I already cleaned the plugs on the rear windscreen with sandpaper.Check out the switch.VW Golf II
In cold weather, the engine often dies off, when the car is standing.Carburetor adjustment incorrect.VW Golf II
When pushing the throttle control fully at about 2300 rpm, the engine starts to splutter. Distributor arm, distributor cap and spark plug connectors have been replaced.Possibly spark plugs or, if Mono-Jetronic, vacuum cell on the distributor defective.VW Golf II 1.8
Again and again there are dropouts and the engine runs very lumpy. The performance is dropping, and heavy bucking, especially in the partial load area. Then again everything working fine, sometimes for weeks.Lambda probe defective. Just plug off, drive and see if the problem is gone now. Check ignition system, cables etc.VW Golf I Cabrio
The automatic gear makes a clearly audible click in the fourth gear. In addition, when driving with about 2000 to 3000 rpm, the numbers of revolutions rise and fall, as if pushing the throttle. In idle speed the engine runs quite normal.Get the error memory read, might be an error in the engine control (load signal not plausible, possibly air flow sensor). Check gearbox oil level. In order to do that, you need a test device, as the oil level has to be gauged at 95°F (35°C) to 115°F (45°C).VW Passat TDI Automatik 1998
After having pushed the clutch, the pedal often stays down and I have to draw it back with my foot. Yet when touching slightly, the pedal would go down completely.Possibly the clutch master cylinder leaky. Have it checked urgently. Dangerous!VW Golf III TDI
The car starts when cold, but while getting warm, almost always the engine dies off, and can only be restarted after about ten to fifteen minutes, bucks shortly and runs fine thereafter. Reading the error memory showed up no error. Fuel pump and temperature valve are OK.Usually the problem is the fuel system pressure controller. Check the water temperature sensor.VW Passat 35 I 2E 115 PS
In cold weather, the car start fine, but running while cold, it produces drifts of smoke and runs a bit lumpy, so that one always has to rev-up a bit. After two to three minutes, everything is fine, but after 15 to 25 minutes, the engine performance drop down until the engine has died off. After having stood for two to three minutes it would start again arduously after several trials. It runs lumpy again and in the drivers compartment it pretty smells of fuel for a moment. The air filter area is completely wet and smeared with oil.The throttle valve actuator, respectively the choke actuator are defective, the enrichment tubes jammed, float defective or false carburetor adjustment.VW Golf II 50 PS 1989
While driving, the temperature and tank indicators drop and all consumers quit. When standing, after two or three minutes, everything works fine again. When actuating the horn while driving, all the indicators would light up. The alternator has been replaced.Probably a short circuit with ground in the control panel block: demount, examine the solder joints carefully, if necessary replace it.VW Golf II
The gears can't be switched easily.Check gearbox oil level. Grease gear drafts.VW
When the engine had been cold and I drive shortly with the car, it immediately drops to lower numbers of revolutions or even dies off. When turning the engine off after a short run, it only starts again after about quarter an hour. No problems when the engine is warm.Temperature measurer defective.VW Golf II
When preheating, there's a strong buzzing coming from the fuse box (it's the relay no. 258), the preheating indicator would go out, but when trying to start, the starter doesn't rotate.When the car works again, check the power supply with a multimeter. With engine running, connect on ground and on the plus cable of the alternator. The nominal value is about 13.8 volts. If the measured value should be smaller, then the alternator regulator is worn out. Replace the regulator. The buzzing sound comes from the preheater relay, when the battery voltage is too low. Clean all ground connections (body, gearbox, engine) with a wire scratch brush.VW Golf II Diesel 1984
No currency arrives at the rear window wiper servo. The fuses are OK.Check the cables and their harness at the tailgate (upper left, rubber cover). Often, the cables there have fractures.VW Golf II
Crackling when accelerating strongly while driving within the medium range of numbers of revolutions (2000-4000 rpm).Change fuel grade. Refuel super. Change ignition timing.VW Golf IV 1.4 75 PS
Every now and then the car wouldn't start. The starter doesn't turn and there's a loud buzzing, howling noise. When trying repeatedly, it's getting worse.This problem usually occurs, if dust from the clutch has set in the starter and on the shaft, on which the drive-components starter motor (freewheel) is shifted by the magnetic switch. If so, the freewheel gearing of the starter is no longer inserted correctly into the sprocket of the engine flywheel => electric motor of starter rotates, but without adhesion to the engine. Solution: Have starter fixed or replace starter.VW Golf Kombi
While working, the seat heating has failed. The fuse is OK.Without side airbag: pull off the plug under the seat and check power supply. Attention: If having side airbags, don't work on that yourself, have a professional check it!VW Golf IV
The engine bucks and jogs. Throttle valve has been cleaned.Possibly the engine control unit.VW Golf IV
When going uphill for a long distance and high outside temperatures the oil indicator lamp lights up and the engine temperature rises.Possibly oil pressure switch defective.VW Golf II
The second gear can't be shifted anymore.Check linkage and control wires, possibly something is loose or stretched. Usually the problem is not the gearbox, but the peripheral mechanics. As a test, loosen the linkage and try to shift gears directly on the gearbox, and see if the gear snaps in. Otherwise adjust gearing. Possibly the clutch doesn't separate correctly.VW Golf II
The engine runs unsteadily and doesn't react on stepping on the gas, when operational temperature is reached. Spark plugs, spark plug wires and temperature sensor have already been replaced. Without success.Possibly the lambda probe, check ignition timing.VW Passat 35 i 2l E
The engine bucks heavily on outside temperatures of about 30°F (0°C) and less. Sometimes the numbers of revolutions drop so deep, that the car only runs with 6 mph (10 km/h). After a couple of seconds it starts working again normally, until the next time. The exhaust emission values are OK.Probably carburetor frozen, check intake air pre-heater hose and if necessary, replace. Possibly fuel pump relay. If necessary, carry out an internal cleaning of the engine, respectively the fuel system.VW Golf II
Start very badly, also when warm.Possibly fuel filter.VW Golf TD
Dies off while driving, respectively doesn't start. Fuses and ignition spark etc. are OK.As a test, pull off the fuel pump relay (central electronics fuse box slot 12, downright), and bridge over clamp 30 with 87. Check if there is battery-voltage on clamp 30. If the car should start now, either the relay is defective, or the triggering of the engine control unit doesn't work right (TD-signal, speed of rotation signal) or the pump is defective.VW Golf III
The car has a dropout every 60 miles (100 km) and starts to splutter. As if a cylinder was failing. Especially on freeway tours above 2500 rpm.As a test pull off the engine casing, check the cable of the needle stroke giver (injection nozzle cyl. 3) for damages, if OK get the engine on operational temperature and keep it on 3500 to 4000 rpm and knock against the needle stroke giver with a wrench (take care not to damage the cable and the female screw of the injection pipe). If the engine has dropouts then, or shakes, replace the nozzle with the needle stroke giver.VW Passat TDI 1994
The car doesn't start after having stood for a week. The indicator lamps don't light. Starting aid doesn't work.Disconnect the ground cable of the battery, connect the plus cable to the plus of the start aiding battery and the minus cable of the start aiding battery to the disconnected ground cable and start. If it starts up now, the battery is defective (deeply discharged).VW Golf III 66 KW 1996
Every two to four weeks the car wouldn't start and the oil indicator lamp lights up. The battery is OK. After having waited for a couple of minutes it starts up easily when trying. Now the following: after about 40 miles, for some seconds, nothing worked anymore and the oil indicator lamp flashed up about three times.Possibly oil pressure too low or too high (oil pressure switch or oil temperature sensor defective). Get error memory read. Also possible: watery engine oil. Possibly the oil pump is defective. Might also be an electronics problem (e.g. fuel supply relay).VW Golf III 1993
When shifting into the second gear, there's a loud cracking, when shifting up as well as when shifting down.Synchronizer ring defective: demount the gearbox, decompose it, replace the synchronizer rings, assemble it, fill up gearing oil, remount. Shift gears smoothly in the future.VW Golf II
After having installed a stereo equipment, the car doesn't start up anymore.Check fuse of the fuel pump, it's located in the instrument board near the relay.VW Golf IV
The instrument illumination is lighted with ignition off, when turn on the head light. As soon as I turn on the ignition, the illumination goes off. But the rest of the dashboard lights (heating, etc.) remain on. In addition, independently of the position of the ignition key, the clock, the temperature indicator, the fuel indicator and the winker indicator diode don't work. The diode for the for the full beam is glimmering when head light is on. When adding the full beam, the blue diode goes off.Possibly insufficient ground connection to the cockpit. Remove the black frame in front of the indicators, remove the radio, the switches and slide power controls can be pulled off, remove ventilation left-hand, then unscrew the indicators (2 screws), turn it forward carefully, loosen the tachometer axle and pull off the plug, then take it all out forward (caution: with airbag, DON'T remove the steering wheel). Taking the indicator block apart: unscrew the screws left and right, carefully remove the pane with the part of the panel to the front, then take out the left instrument to the front, beneath can be found the backside of the plug connector. Usually there are broken solder joints, carefully resolder them with a small electronic soldering iron (max. 30 watts). Then remove right instrument, top right there's a transistor (3 pins). Check the solder connections, if necessary resolder.VW Golf II
When driving, the temperature indicator rapidly approaches the 230°F (110°C) tag, and when removing the cap of the expansion tank, a lot of cooling liquid comes out. The thermostat has already been replaced, the heating gets warm.Never open the expansion tank, when the water is hot, physical hazard! Possibly the radiator is defective. Check the thermostat again, there's a sensor inside, possibly this one is defective. Possibly the pump wheel of the water pump is loose and does not circulate the water anymore.VW Polo
The co-driver window cracked noisily while opening, and now it can't be shut anymore.That happens quite often. Replace it with the original repair kit, where the mounting is from metal.VW Golf IV 1998
With cold weather below 40°F (5°C) the engine turns up to 4000 rpm in idle speed. The automatic choke has already been renewed.Check, if the automatic choke is flown through by cooling liquid. The hoses lead from the cooling water pipe to the expansion element, thereafter to the automatic choke and go on to the suction tube. Check, if in the suction tube the rubber gasket has macerated => no throughput. Check three-point box (seen from ahead, left-hand on the carburetor), check thermo-electric valve on the carburetor (black part with 2 cables and 2 tiny hoses), has to be supplied with 12 volts when the weather is cold, via fuse 17 or 21.VW Golf II
Above 65 mph the car starts to wobble, especially when stepping on the throttle control. On 75 mph it's already very strong and worsens with increasing speed. The wheels are balanced. I also tried a second set of tires. The dual-mass flywheel has been replaced by the garage. Without success.Might be the constant velocity joint of one of the transmission shafts.VW Golf IV TDI
The car died off while driving and could only be restarted after some time. Then after two weeks the car wouldn't starts anymore without stepping on the throttle, respectively died off. Replaced the spark plug, two ignition cables, distributor arm and distributor cap. Then the car worked fine for a week. Then the idle speed swung between 1200 rpm and 1500 rpm up and down every two seconds. After restarting it disappeared.Problem with the engine control unit, throttle control actuator or throttle position sensor defective. Have error memory read and suction tube pressure gauged. The dying off can also be caused by the hall effect pulse generator in the distributor. Note: Is the error memory read while the engine is off, the error "no signal by hall effect pulse generator" is automatically put out.VW Golf III
When the car is warm and the clutch is released slowly while starting up, the car starts to buck. In the first gear as well as in reverse gear. But the engine keeps numbers of revolutions. When shifting gear or the clutch is released very fast or the engine is cold, the problem doesn't appear.Possibly a problem with the dual-mass flywheel. Neglect this under no circumstances. By the bucking the toothed belt can be overstressed and be torn apart => engine damage.VW Passat Kombi
When starting with cold engine it would start up only after the third or fourth trial, especially with cool and wet weather. The battery is OK. On the first two or three miles it then bucks every now and then. When stepping shortly but fully on the throttle, the engine nearly dies off. When the engine has run warm, everything runs fine. Also when starting the car again within the same day, and starting up, there's no problem. Distributor is OK.Check spark plugs and ignition cables, intake air pre-heating and its reversing valve. Check the connecting flange between suction pipe and injection unit. Check throttle valve actuator and idle tracking switch. If necessary check fuel pump relay and hall effect pulse generator. Check carbon rod in the distributor cap, in necessary clean it from carbon dust. It might also be the temperature sensor, which possibly sends a false signal to the engine control unit.VW Golf III 60 PS 1996
The car rattles when shifting the second gear and releasing the clutch. The first gear can only be shifted hard. Also when shifting from first to second gear, there's a striking sound.Comes possibly from the dual-mass flywheel. Where appropriate, have the adjustment of the gearing checked.VW Golf IV TDI PD
When having started with warm engine, the idle speed swings from normal to full throttle up and down. When stepping on the gas, the whole thing stops briefly. When moving off, the engine usually starts to hang on full throttle.Weak points: throttle valve actuator and -potentiometer.VW Golf II Rabbit PN 1989
The car had been forced open and the steering lock was cracked. While having done an emergency reparation, the steering wheel was removed. Everything works fine now, only the indicator for the airbag is lighted.Possible causes: clock spring or airbag defective, connection plugs from the wiring loom to the clock spring and from clock spring to the airbag. Errors related to the clock spring are usually indicated as "sporadic" in the error memory.VW Golf III
In the tachometer "Service 1500" is indicated, but the car had an inspection lately.Probably the garage forgot to reset the service interval indicator when doing the service check. Take care: this indication only appears on cars with "longlife service". Is the the service indication reset via the instrument cluster, the car is automatically set back to a fixed service interval.VW Golf IV
If it rain all night long, the car hardly reacts on the throttle after starting, and it's as good as impossible to start up, the engine dies off immediately. Sometimes it even dies off when only stepping a little on the gas. With dry weather it runs without problems.Check ignition cables, spark plug connectors and spark plugs. Possibly automatic choke, choke vacuum break box, gap width of the choke butterfly plate.VW Golf II
On 2000 to 3000 rpm and warm engine the indicator for the oil pump lights up. Going beyond that range of numbers of revolutions, the lamp extinguishes, when going below, the lamp remains lighted. Renewing the oil, a new oil pump and oil circuit breaker didn't work.Rotational speed signal false or oil pressure incorrect.VW Golf
When the engine is warm or the weather is hot, the gears don't shift and the clutch pedal can hardly be stepped on. No problems with cold engine.Have a look at the pedals, if something is broken.VW Golf II
Consumes 2 liters of oil on 600 miles.Possibly cylinder head gasket or piston rings defective. Have checked if a heated crank case ventilation is built-in, if not, the oil might have been frozen in the winter.VW Golf IV 1,4 16V
In irregular intervals the exhaust gas warning indicator lights up and extingguishes again after some days. Cleaning and replacing the lambda probe didn't work.Possibly fuel pressure regulator. The car possibly already has 2 lambda probes (before and behind the catalytic converter). When going short trip frequently, try burning it free: after having checked the oil level and with warm engine drive in the 2. gear with full throttle for 2 to 3 miles. If the error doesn't occur thereafter for several days or weeks, it's about the short trip operating.VW Golf IV 1,4 55 KW
In idle speed, the numbers of revolutions rise and fall, sometimes it even dies off completely. Error memory has been read, crank case ventilation cleaned and repaired, throttle valve box removed and built-in again, error analysis in the suction system carried out. Without success.Clean and adjust throttle valve control unit, check vacuum hose to the brake booster for leaks.VW Golf IV 1,4 1999 75PS
The engine dies off while driving. Would only start again after having waited for 5 minutes.Power supply relay for the engine control unit defective.VW Golf IV TDI
The car starts only after three long trials and works up white steam. The heater plug indicator lights up for about 1 or 2 seconds and extinguishes afterwards. Outside temperature 60°F (15°C).The flow controller of the diesel pump is defective.VW Golf III TDI
With cold weather, sometimes it wouldn't react on the throttle for several seconds. Every now and then it also dies off while driving.Check intake air pre-heater hose. Leads from the suction pipe of the air filter to a plate at the manifold.VW Golf II
When switching on the dim light, the radio darkens down extremely and also the instruments lighting is very poor.Dimmed down instrument lighting? Check the plug of the green/blue cable (for the instrument lighting) on the radio. With third party radios, the cable allocation in the plug sometimes doesn't fit.VW Golf II
In idle speed with warm engine it runs lumpy. The distributor contacts look quite roasted.Ignition cables, spark plugs or distributor cap. Possibly controller device defective. Possibly air flow sensor defective.VW Golf II
Sometimes the engine dies off when acting the clutch.Check throttle valve actuator. Possibly idle tracking switch defective, that's a part in the throttle valve actuator, possibly the intermediate flange between injection pump unit and suction pipe defective, if the engine should run on three cylinders, check vacuum hose of the brake booster.VW Golf III
In warm operating condition the engine often dies off in idle speed. The air filter was replaced and the throttle valve was cleaned.Have the error memory read. Get the engine speed sensor adjusted after cleaning the throttle valve, can only be done with a tester.VW Golf IV 1,4
When the engine is cold, one has to step on the gas in order to start the engine. Thereafter one has to go on stepping on the gas, so the engine doesn't just die off. The colder the weather, the worse it gets. After going for about 20 minutes it runs normally, but until then the idle speed is very unsteady, varies slightly up and down. High fuel consumption. Also smells of fuel while driving.Possibly the suction flange between between injection unit und suction pipe defective or leaky.VW Golf III 1.6
The windscreen wipers suddenly work just sporadically and then only very slowly. The fuse is OK.The wiper axle has gone stuck.VW Golf IV 2000
The warning sound doesn't ring out anymore, when the key is removed with parking lights on, respectively when the temperature is below 40°F.If also the interior lighting doesn't light up when opening the door, it's a defective switch in the door lock. If the car has mechanical window regulators it's eventually a defective blocking diode in the wiring loom of the door. Possibly the buzzer in the instrument cluster is defective, can be tested by the Tester VAS 5051 in the garage with a setting element diagnosis.VW Golf IV
While driving suddenly doesn't react on the gas pedal anymore for one or two seconds and the revolution counter drops to idle speed. If the engine dies off, although it can be started again and goes on driving, the exhaust indicator lamp would be lighted.Possibly engine speed sensor, its cabling or power supply relay for the engine control device defective.VW Golf IV
The wiper is only moving extremely slowly.Remove cover, remove wiper motor (remove the key, so that the wiper cannot start unintentionally), hang out the drive linkage (water pump pliers), then check each side for movability. If one side should be heavy to move, replace the wiper drive, the motor can be used again.VW Golf VI 2000
The engine sometimes speeds extremely high, without stepping on the gas. After stopping the engine for a short period, everything is normal again.Liquid coolant level too low. Refill (the thermoelement gets no signal, as it's not in contact with the cooling water).VW Golf II
Ignition failures and related with it loss of performance. Spark plugs and ignition cables are OK (distributorless equipment).Get the ignition thyristor replaced. It has to be adjusted to the car afterwards.VW
After the weekend the car doesn't start anymore.The problem is with the relay 109 of the engine electronics. It's located on the normal relay board nearby the fuses. If necessary resolder the solder joints or replace the relay.VW Golf IV SDI
When standing, the idle speed drops down on about 500 rpm. Sometimes it dies off completely, but can be started again immediately.Air filter and throttle valve actuator filthy. Clean the throttle valve.VW Passat Benziner 1995 115 PS
While standing, the idle speed often rises up to 2000 or 3000 rpm.Possibly the electronics, that regulates the cut-off valve, but in that case the idle speed revolutions should vary. Probably the throttle cable is twisted, canted or blocked, possibly the retaining spring has become too weak. Possibly the idle control valve distributor. Possibly the temperature sensor.VW Golf II 90 PS 1991
When coming to idle speed (shifting gear, etc.) the engine suddenly dies off.Clean or renew the air filter. Possibly throttle valve control unit defective or filthy.VW Golf IV 16V Benziner 1999
The engine dies off in idle speed at least once a day, but thereafter immediately starts again.Possibly a vacuum hose fissured.VW Golf
After going by more than 60 mph for a long distance, there's a permanent alarm sound when thereafter going below 60 mph. When shifting the 3. gear, the alarm sound extinguishes.Oil pressure too low. Go directly to the garage, as a heavy engine damage is imminent.VW Golf II
The throttle valve was replaced. Now the idle speed is always at 1200 rpm, also when the engine is warm.The throttle valve adaptation has not been done, it serves for adjustment of the idle speed on about 800 rpm.VW Golf IV 1,6
The car loses cooling water.Search for outer cooling water leakage. If nothing can be found with the naked eye, drive to a garage and get the cooling system checked with pressure.VW Polo Open Air Benziner 44 KW 1996
The cold engine runs well in idle speed, when getting warm, the number of revolutions drop down and the engine dies off, if not stepping on the gas.Check temperature sensor of the idle speed control (is located above on the cylinder head).VW Golf II
When switching on the ventilation and the car is standing, there's a definite smell of fuel.Look for fuel leakage with engine running. If necessary tie up the clips.VW Golf II
The idle speed varies and when stepping on the gas the engine chokes and dies off.Check the alternator, throttle position sensor, as well as the hoses of the idle speed controller on tightness. Check idle speed sensor. Possibly the gasket between carburetor and air filter box defective. Possibly the carburetor flange gasket between injection system (or carburetor) and suction manifold. Can be checked by injecting start spray into the warm engine (idle speed increases then). Possibly the ventilation system draws false air, check the suction hoses behind the air flow sensor.VW Polo III 86C Coupe
The electric windows are defective and can only still be controlled from the drivers side. The rear side window regulators don't work at all. The fuses are all OK.The cable leading from the drivers door to the body work is defective.VW
The engine doesn't have power anymore and the numbers of revolutions rise heavily.Replace the air flow sensor.VW Golf IV
After frequent starting and stopping, the engine often doesn't start up. After waiting about a minute it's working again.Probably it's the engine electronics. It needs a time to shut down, before the engine can be started again, like with a PC.VW Octavia 1.9 TDI
After starting, the engine often dies off again, but the second time usually starts up and runs fine. When the engine is cold, on the first meters it doesn't react on the gas, stutters, bucks and often dies off (the last also with warm engine).Clean the throttle valve unit.VW Golf IV 1.4
When operating with a trailer, the temperature rises above 210°F.Check level and kind of the cooling liquid.VW Passat 1,9 TDI 90 PS 1995
Suddenly the engine has an idle speed of 1500 rpm and loss of performance in the upper speed range, like being broken away. The error memory says: "5 errors detected: 00553 air flow sensor-G70 short circuit to plus / 00539 fuel temperature sensor-G81 disconnection / short circuit to plus / 00777 gas pedal sensor-G79 signal not plausible / 00527 suction pipe temperature sensor-G72 disconnection / short circuit to plus / cooling temperature sensor-G62 disconnection / short circuit to plus".Check if the cables at the plug of the engine control device are in place (snapped in correctly in the plug). Check pedal position sensor (gas pedal). Possibly a problem with the air regulation (air flow sensor) or the fuel filter is jammed or defective.VW Passat TDI 1,9 90 PS 1995
After switching the ignition off, the engine doesn't stop immediately, but runs on for a while.If model with carburetor, possibly cut-off valve defective. Check on the carburetor, if a cable or a hose is disconnected. If necessary, replace the expansion element (at the front part of the carburetor).VW Golf II 75 PS
Loss of cooling liquid, airscrewlike sounds from the engine and heavy fume output from the exhaust.Cylinder head gasket defective.VW Golf II
The car consumes 2.5 liters oil on 600 miles.Possibly cylinder head gasket or cylinder head defective. When accompanied by white fume, the turbo might be defective.VW T3 TD 1,6
With cooling water temperature below 170°F, the engine bucks extremely (with complete dropouts), thereafter runs fine. The hoses are all OK.Probably G62 (cooling liquid temperature sensor). If this one sends false values, the warm air concentration of the engine control unit becomes incorrect. The G62 is usually located on a water hose, which leads from the engine to the radiator (on top). Possibly a cable has loosened from the plug. If necessary get error memory read.VW Golf III 2.0
The fuel pump doesn't get power supply.Check, if the fuel pump relay connects through (connects through for some seconds with "ignition on" and "engine off")VW Golf II
The cooling water in the expansion tank boils over when the engine is warm. The heating doesn't get warm very well. The thermostat has already been renewed.Possibly the cap of the expansion tank doesn't lock correctly anymore or the overpressure valve in the cap is defective. Possibly the water pump is defective.VW Polo 86C
Heats, although the control is adjusted on cold.Possibly the bowden cable, that connects a gate with the ventilation control.VW Polo
After driving about 15 minutes there's a faint squeaking at the speed of about 50 mph.Brake discs, overcoming rim by wearout.VW Polo Fox 1993
The alternator charging indicator doesn't light up briefly as usually, when plugging in the key.Remove the alternator and replace the regulator.VW Polo 1.4 TDi
The engine dies off while driving. Can be started again after a short while.Possibly the power supply relay of the engine electronics defective.VW Golf 4 1.4 16V 75 PS
Sometimes the engine dies off again after having started, independent of stepping on the gas.Remove the control device for the automatic starter disable, open up, resolder defective solder joints and build in again. If necessary, replace the controller and retrain the key.VW Golf III
At first brief, sporadic dropouts on the speedway. About once a week for about half a second. Now the car dies off while driving and can only be started again after about an hour.The ignition coil is defective.VW Polo 86C
With 75 mph on the speedway and humid-cold weather suddenly doesn't react on the throttle anymore and dies off. After 5 minutes it can be started again. The car can be started without problems and only after 3 to 6 miles starts to have problems. Sometimes it stutters or doesn't accelerate anymore. The fuel consumption increased for about 2 liters on 60 miles.The ignition coil with the integrated transistor ignition module (with the rectangular ignition coil, the problem is the module) or the hall effect pulse generator of the distributor are defective.VW Golf II Modell 90
The engine continues running briefly after switching off. In addition, the engine speed is quite high, as soon as operational temperature is reached.Possibly expansion element at the carburetor or automatic cold start system defective. Check, if both are still flown through by cooling liquid. The socket of the suction pipe is often blocked (gasket in the suction pipe macerates). If the parts aren't flown through anymore, they're not getting hot enough => expansion element and automatic cold start system don't regulate => engine speed too high.VW Passat 1.6 mit (Vergaser)
While standing, the engine speed sometimes drops so deep, that the engine almost dies off. The idle speed is adjusted at 800 to 1000 rpm.The throttle valve actuator or the throttle potentiometer are defective. Seen from ahead, the throttle valve actuator is located beneath the accelerator cable, at the front of the injection pump unit. It is black and has a 4 or 6 pole plug. The potentiometer is built-in right-hand into the lower part of the injection unit (black, with four sealed screws). Get error memory read out.VW Golf III
With cold engine in the winter, the battery indicator starts to flash in idle speed and the engine dies off, unless stepping on the gas.Check cooling liquid sensor and air temperature sensor as well as the idle speed controller. If necessary, restore the hose of the intake heater assembly and check the changeover switch for summer and winter.VW Polo 86C
Dies off in idle speed.Clean carburetor. Possibly the induction tract draws foreign air. Check distributor for corroded contacts, respectively mis-adjusted ignition timing. Check vacuum hose leading from the intake bridge to the brake booster. There's a small elbow directly at the suction pipe, that often gets leaky. The engine sucks foreign air and dies off. In addition the brake efficiency fades.VW Golf III
While driving, the car stopped with a bang. Now in idle speed, the engine runs away into the red area, without touching the gas pedal. The catalytic converter has been replaced and the injection pump reconditioned.Check oil level. Check, if there's oil in the air filter box. This can happen, if the engine sucks oil instead of fuel. As on diesel engines the idle speed control is done via the injection pump, it would speed up uncontrollably. Attention: danger of engine damage!VW Golf III Diesel
The engine suddenly died off, thereafter extreme oil consumption of two liters on 60 miles. But the engine starts and runs normal. Compression check: 4 to 14 bar.The compression has to be at least 27 bar. Possibly damage on the cylinder head or gasket, possibly turbo charger. Exact analysis requires decomposition of the engine (at least the cylinder head).VW T3
Loss of water, the water boils when the engine is warm. The cooling hose nozzles have been renewed and sealed up, the cooling system bled, the thermostat replaced, the cylinder head gasket renewed, the complete cooling system flushed out, the cylinder head replaced, the thermo witch for the ventilator replaced, the relay for the thermo switch replaced, the water pump replaced.If the cap of the expansion tank rattle when shaking it, it's OK, if not, replace.VW Passat
The speedometer pointer doesn't move anymore.If a new radio has been built in, probably the cable for the gala signal has been connected falsely. Possibly the mileage counter sensor or cable defective. Possibly damage by martens.VW Golf III 1.6 Automatik
When going off, the car starts to buck heavily. It feels like almost dying off. Occurs sporadically.Carburetor or hall effect pulse generator defective.VW Golf II
The oil smells of fuel intensely. Oil and oil filter have been replaced. After about 60 miles there's fuel in the oil again.The piston rings are defective.VW Golf II 1.6 L
When starting the engine in cold condition, it runs normal for about three second, then the engine speed drops, it stutters and finally dies off. As soon as the engine is warm to some degree, it almost always behaves normal, only sometimes the idle speed is a little unsteady. The engine temperature sensor and the air supply screw and regulator have been replaced.The automatic cold start system is defective.VW Golf II
The instrument illumination has failed.Remove the paneling around the steering column switch and the cover around the tachometer. Then unscrew two screws, which fix the tachometer unit. Loosen the speedometer. Pull off the speedometer drive shaft, remove the plugs and then remove the unit. Attention: if there's an air bag, DO NOT remove the steering wheel for working more convenient! Thereafter the single bulbs can be replaced. When building in again, take care that the speedometer drive shaft snaps in correctly.VW Golf III
Every now and then the car bucks while driving. Due to a readout error of the throttle position sensor the injection unit has been replaced.Probably a problem with the lambda probe or the catalytic converter lambda control. Or the air flow sensor is defective.VW Golf III
In the winter the car dies off frequently. When standing as well as while driving. Most times the engine can be restarted after waiting for two minutes.Circuit in the distributor defective => replace the distributor.VW Golf
When turning the ignition key for turning the car off, the engine goes on running.The magnetic switch, that shuts the fuel supply is defective.VW Passat TDi 1996
With cold weather and in cold condition, the engine run lumpy. When stepping on the gas or shifting gear the engine dies off. 30 second after starting a can step on the gas carefully, then the engine runs better. When driving, the engine stutters and bumps. After having gone for about 20 to 30 minutes or with warm weather, it runs fine.Possibly temperature sensor for the cooling water is defective. The controller gets false values and injects less fuel.VW Golf II
In irregular intervals the oil indicator lamp blazes. The oil has already been renewed, the oil level is OK.Oil pressure switch or oil pump defective.VW Polo II
The electric window fails. It only clicks when activated.Remove door cover, disassemble the window motor (unscrew aluminum case), turn the rotor back and forth several times and assemble everything. If necessary replace the motor.VW Golf III GTI
Loss of fuel at the diesel pump.An o-ring seal of the injection pump has disintegrated, possibly by use of bio-diesel. There's an o-ring seal especially for bio-diesel users. Has to be replaced.VW Golf IV TDI
At an engine speed of about 3000 rpm, there's a rolling clacking, respectively knocking coming from the engine (on the co-drivers side). When loading the engine or taking away the gas, it vanishes.Possibly a bearing damage.VW Passat VR6
When stepping on the clutch, the engine often dies off.The throttle valve is filthy. Clean it and carry out an adjustment of the basic settings.VW Polo
The ventilation doesn't work.Check fuses. Possibly a plug connection (behind the instrument board) has loosened.VW Golf II