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Car repair collection

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After letting loose the accelerator pedal, the engine remains speeded up for a while, before the engine then comes down to normal neutral speed.The plug and/or wiring of the throttle position sensor have to be replaced.Ford Ka
Now as its cold, every morning the engine would die off when stepping on the clutch after 500 meters. After about a half minute I can start the car again and it would run normally.It's the idle run control valve, that's a common error source. Can be fixed by cleaning. Possibly the induction air temperature sensor (behind the air filter) defective. Possibly the throttle potentiometer, or throttle dirty. Possibly water temperature sensor or engine control device defective.Ford Escort
When starting with cold engine and going for about two minutes, the car bucks and gets more and more slow. The car doesn't react on fully pushed throttle control. Thereafter oil and battery lamps light up and the engine dies off. Then the car wouldn't start anymore. Though it tries to start, it always dies off immediately.Check spark plugs and ignition system. Possibly potentiometer or top dead centre sensor.Ford Fiesta 1.1 CFI
While driving the number of revolutions would suddenly drop on zero and the engine dies off. The fuel pump doesn't start anymore. Replacing the pump didn't fix it up. If supplied with currency directly, the pump starts. The control unit, the cables and the relays are OK.Possibly the safety switch for the fuel pump. Look into the manual under "safety switch fuel pump". Check fuses. There's a green relay in the fusebox that every now and then causes trouble.Ford Fiesta 1.1 1991
Every time I push down the clutch pedal, the rpms go up to 5000 revolutions. But sometimes the engine simply dies off.The air flow sensor or the idle run controller are defective or there's a too high contact resistance at the plug of the throttle position sensor. If necessary, disconnect the battery for a couple of hours, to reset the memory in the control unit. Idle run controller should be cleaned.Ford Fiesta
Sometimes the revolution counter indicates 2000 rpm too much, sometimes beyond the red line, or it bucks. Three times the engine died off while driving, after the instrument again indicated beyond red line. After about a minute it would start again.Replace fuse box.Ford RS 2000
After having had insufficient amount of cooling liquid in the cooling water reservoir for some time, the heating only emits cold air. The engine grows warm, the hoses in direction heating also, but in the cabin nothing arrives.The heater control valve is defective or there's a defect in the controlling of the temperature valve. Check servos as well as their activation signal.Ford Ka
Hand brake lamp lights up all the time.Probably there's an insufficient amount of brake fluid in the brake fluid reservoir. Check immediately. Possibly it might also be the sensor, that measures the amount of liquid.Ford Ka
Rear window wiper only works sporadically.Check the contacts at the rear hatch. They probably only have to be cleaned with abrasive paper.Ford Ka
The car suddenly retards down in full drive.Possibly the brakes go stuck (brake cylinders) or the anti-lock braking system is defective. Possibly the catalytic converter is congested, and so at high revolutions the tailback of exhaust fumes causes a kind of engine brake effect.Ford Ka
The heating doesn't work. Gets lukewarm at most, also after long highway. Ventilation is running. The engine temperature indication also stays in the lower area.Possibly not enough cooling liquid. But probably the thermostat is defective. Or the heat exchanger for the drivers cabin is defective or jammed.Ford
The engine dies off when the temperatures are lower than 50°F (10°C). While the engine would start immediately, also at lower temperatures, the stalls after having gone for some meters and releasing the throttle control. When the engine has reached operating temperature its running normally.Clean the idle speed control valve.Ford Escort 1.6 16V
There is a problem with the automatic transmission. The car doesn't gear up to the 4. gear at 65 mph (100 km/h) and after about 10 minutes, the OVERDRIVE indicator flashes permanently.Get the error memory read by a Ford garage.Ford Scorpio 2.3 Automatik
When gearing, the engine revolves very high and clutch doesn't seem to grip anymore. The engine has run for about 170.000 Km.Insert a gear and draw tight the hand-brake. When you now carefully release the clutch, the clutch should try to stall the engine after a short way. If the clutch can be released far, the pads have to be replaced.Ford Escort
The car stood in the garage for 2 years. Now the rear light, the parking light and the speedometer lamps sometimes don't work (always all of them). The headlamps are OK.Carefully knock against the light switch with the handle of a screwdriver, if this doesn't fix it, clean the switch or replace it.Ford
When I turn off the car and remove the key, the indicator lamps light up, that normally light up when starting. That also discharges the battery over night.The ignition and starting switch oder the electric part of the ignition lock are defective.Ford Galaxy
The car now and then dies off. Usually when driving on the expressway. Independently of speed, number of revolutions, temperature or time interval.Power supply relay for the engine electronics or fuel pump relay defective.Ford Focus Turnier DI
When starting, sometimes there's a squeaking noise. When starting again, it normally squeaks once more shortly and usually starts successfully the third time. Starter has been replaced, with an only temporary success.Check V-belt tension, if necessary tighten it. If it's a more crashing or rattling noise, it also might be the dispaceable pinion of the starter or the wheel sprocket on the flywheel.Ford Fiesta
From 4000 rpm on the engine starts to shriek and the performance is too low.V-Belt tension too low or clutch worn out.Ford Fiesta GLX
The fan doesn't work properly. On levels 1,2 and 3 nothing happens. Only on level 4 it works normally.Fan resistor defective.Ford Focus
When I start the car, it immediately starts up, but then dies off quickly. No lamp in the panel lights up.Battery weak or empty.Ford Escort Cabrio
When releasing the throttle control abruptly on warm engine, the engine dies off. When letting the numbers of revolutions sink slowly, the engine can hold idle speed without problems.Possibly the idle run control valve is defective. Replace the spark plugs and the fuel filter. The heated exhaust gas oxygen sensor probably doesn't work reliable, i.e. it was partially defective and delivered wrong values to the control device. Replace exhaust gas oxygen sensor.Ford Fiesta 1,3 37KW JBS 1997
The car doesn't start up anymore, there's no fuel arriving at the engine. Fuel pump relay was already replaced.Protective switch in the drivers legroom breaks circuit. It's under the cover left-hand beside the clutch pedal. With a coin loosen the circular cover. If the car starts and immediately dies off, the switch is defective and has to be replaced.Ford Escort
When going for short distances, the battery discharges rapidly, depending on what consumers are working, after 8-16 start-ups. The alternator and the battery have been replaced. No success.Probably leakage currents. Gauge the consumption when idle with an ammeter. Shouldn'd be more than some milliamperes.Ford Scorpio Kombi
While replacing the battery, I accidentally short-circuited the positive pole with the ground. The car doesn't start anymore. Starter is OK. When I pull off the ignition key, the ignition stays on. When activating the winkers, the relay crunches.Possibly only an engine fuse defective. Possibly control circuit board destroyed. See the manual for positions of the fuses. The standard fuses are usually inside the instrumentation panel. The system relevant parts are in the engine compartment, there a fuse for the ignition system might be burned out.Ford Fiesta
With very high outside temperatures over 30°C (85°F) the car would not start. The fuel pump relay was replaced. Fuel pump was checked and it showed up that it is not always supplied with voltage.Check fuel pump relay. Possibly the ground cable in the wiring loom to the fuel pump is damaged. Vapor lock by loss of pressure in the fuel- or injection system when turning off. Can be caused by various parts: pressure reservoir, back-pressure valve, injection jets, pressure regulator, etc.Ford Fiesta GFJ
Whether being on the motorway or in the city, the would simply turn off. When turning the key, the engine starts again.An electronic problem. Possibly the contact breaker arm.Ford Escort
Interior lighting, warning buzzer, light switch and rear window wiper don't work. According to the manual all different fuses.Check door light switch. Clean contacts of the rear window wiper at the luggage compartment lid with sandpaper. Cable insulation direction trailer melted away caused by hot exhaust.Ford Focus
If you're not on the throttle control, the engine dies off. The engine presses oil through the carburetor up to the air filter. The gaskets have been replaced and the engine is impermeable. By now the car is very loud. When pushing the throttle control, it sounds like driving a moped.Butterfly valve servo or piston rings defective. The latter causes overpressure in the crankcase, which transports oil via the crankcase breather into the air filter box. Look at the spark plug electrodes, if oil is being burned, there's a brownish sediment on the electrodes. Check compression and pressure loss.Ford Fiesta 1995 G-Kat
At first my car started to accelerate raggedly and also to die off, when releasing the throttle control. The engine has been cleaned thoroughly in the garage. Ran well for about a month. Now its accelerating full throttle all the time. A new controller didn't fix the problem.The Throttle body servo, the lambda probe, the MAF or the MAP Sensor are defective. The MAP sensor is to be found at the right-hand side of the engine compartment. It's a little black box, fixed with 2 screws, a cable plug and a fuse on it. Remove the plug and the fuse, start the engine and look if it runs even now. If the numbers of revolutions don't fluctuate anymore, replace.Ford Fiesta
When starting up, white steam is coming out of the exhaust.White steam is usually a sign for the engine burning engine coolant. Possibly the cylinder head gasket has a fine rupture, in the worst case the engine has one. Have it checked by a garage.Ford Fiesta 1,6
After having replaced the backside brake pads and discs, the impact of the hand brake is too weak, even when pulled up to the seventh grid.Beneath the hand brake lever loosen the leather cover, and beneath it is a threaded rod with a female screw. Tighten a bit at a time (not too much at once) and count the sprockets while pulling the lever. 4 to 5 is optimal.Ford Focus
When braking, something is hammering on the right front-side. Going over cobblestone it sounds as if any a metal part is loose and rattles. When going backwards, there's a jerk and then again the rattling. While changing the tire nothing was to be found.Possibly the dome bearing. Lift the car, so that the front wheel is raised from the bottom, then by hand push up the wheel. If the bearing moves in the dome of the suspension strut, it's worn out. Might also be a worn out track control arm bearing. The backside track control arm bearing (=rubber bearing) can loosen from the metal eyelet and the track control arm doesn't have a vertical conduction anymore. Then this kind of sound appears. To check, lift the wheel free and look into it. If the rubber has loosened itself from the bearing and the track control arm can be moved vertically, the track control arm bearing has to be replaced.Ford Escort
There's a high whistling sound at about 2800 rpm when accelerating, afterwards disappearing.Exhaust manifold gasket leaky.Ford Focus 1,8 TDi
From time to time the alternator indicator lamp lights up while driving. When the engine is turned off and the lamp should light, it doesn't. The lamp doesn't light in full strength, the relay is changing audibly from one state to the other.Attach revolution counter. When loosening the constant plus cable from the alternator and connecting it via a test lamp with body, the test lamp has to light up when the ignition is turned on. In this case the control lamp is OK. Now connect the test lamp to battery plus and the other side to the constant plus connection at the alternator. The test lamp has to light up now. If the engine is started now, the lamp has to extinguish (at least after a short push on the throttle control). If it doesn't, the alternator is defective.Ford Fiesta 1,8 D
When starting up, going in bends, especially on bumpy streets and when going uphill slowly, there's a dull, deep, unsteady knocking sound from underneath the car (I think rather from backwards). It sounds like someone beating lightly with a hammer on a metal tank, filled with water.The exhaust if slamming against the body work or lacking lubrication of the pedal carrier in the engine compartment. Might also be environmental stress forces. Possibly tank contents swashing when half-full.Ford Fiesta
There are flackering sounds when driving, which seem to come from everywhere. The faster, the worse. When going slow speed it's almost imperceptible, not before going by 20 mph (30Km/h). There are no loose parts.Possibly an imbalance in the wheels, possibly lost a balance weight.Ford Escort
While driving, the engine suddenly loses performance and then only goes by 15 mph. Idle speed is steady. Stepping fully on the gas only results in an engine speed of 3500 rpm, sometimes only 2000 rpm. With full throttle there's blck steam.Fuel filter jammed or air filter filthy.Ford Escort Diesel
When starting cold, the fuel pump often doesn't get power supply. Mostly it works, when waiting ont to two minutes with the ignition turned on. But sometimes it takes longer or doesn't work at all.The conductor path in the central electronics possibly doesn't make contact to the relay (Kl. 30), or a contact in the relay may be burnt up or worn out. Remove the fuse box and exchange the two brown relays to detect a defect. They are identical.Ford Escort VI 1994
The oil consumption has increased heavily.Renew valve stem sealings.Ford Fiesta 1.1
When the engine has grown warm, e.g. after a speedy trip on the speedway (especially with warm weather), it wouldn't start up after a stop. One has to wait then for about half an hour, until it has cooled down.Temperature sensor defective.Ford Fiesta XR2i
After driving about half an hour on the speedway, one by one all the consumers failed: radio, ventilation, the wiper only moved extremely slowly, but the car still ran. When I has to turn on the headlight, the engine nearly died off. After switching the headlight off, the engine worked again. Now, after having turned the engine off, it wouldn't start anymore, the starter doesn't rotate, the lamps only light up briefly. There's not more than a clacking of the starter.Carbon rods of the regulator worn out.Ford Fiesta 1.1
After the car had not started anymore and when starting there were only a clicking sound, respectively the battery indicator lighted up with engine running, a new battery was built in. The engine starts now, but the battery indicator is still faintly lighted.Alternator defective, so the battery doesn't get charged well enough anymore.Ford Fiesta
After driving about 5 miles, the oil filler cap (to slip over, not to screw) jumps off and bounces against the engine bonnet. Oil level is OK.Possibly the valve stem sealings are worn out. Possibly the valve of the overpressure hose (from carburetor to air filter) is jammed. Flush out with cleaning benzine.Ford Escort Cabrio 1989
In the tachometer area there's a crackling noise. The winker control lamp for the trailer, left of the steering wheel, sometimes is winking as well.It is a shortcircuit caused by humidity in the connection plug for the trailer.Ford Mondeo TD 1.8